| I've read repeated posts on here that describe various tedious methods for removing these bushings, including burning them out (yuck). This was my second time thru this so I thought I'd take some pictures to show how I've been doing this. Specifically this is for removing the subframe bushings to replace them with Energy Suspension bushings. Fwiw I've found it easier and faster to perform a single step on ALL four bushings before moving on to the next step. You already have the tools in hand so this is a time-saver. Your call. Tools Required
1) 1-3/4" and 2" holesaws (center-bit not required)
2) Drill
3) Sawzall with a bimetal blade
4) Grinder with a wire wheel
5) Hammer
6) C-clamp and a 3" diameter (or 3x3 square) metal plate All of those may not be common in every garage, but you should be able to round them up between your neighbors and your buddies. Original Bushing
Yours may be in better shape or worse depending on age and amount of abuse. 
Step 1 - Upper Bushing Wall
Using the 2" holesaw and the drill, drill thru the upper wall of the bushing into the silicone-filled chamber. If you can dig up a 2-1/8" holesaw I believe that would be ideal, but that's not a common size so I had to use 2". If you're using the 2" hole saw you will need to wallow the hole saw around to remove the rubber that is stuck to the outer metal sleeve. This cut needs to be as large a diameter as possible. Don't worry about digging into the metal sleeve with the holesaw, we'll be removing that sleeve shortly.
 Step 2 - Lower Bushing Wall
Using the 1-3/4" holesaw and the drill, drill thru the lower wall of the bushing into the silicone-filled chamber. No need to worry about the hole size on this one, we need only cut thru the wall and into the silicone chamber. 1-3/4" was simply the largest I had that didn't interfere with the lower metal flange.
 Step 3 - Bushing Core
Using a pair of screwdrivers, pry the bushing core out the top. This is why it's important to cut as large a hole as possible in Step 1. A 2" hole is NOT large enough to fit the core thru, but after you've enlarged it by wallowing the hole saw around the core fits.
 Step 4 - Upper Sleeve
Now we need to remove the sleeve that the upper bushing wall was glued to. Cut thru the sleeve using the sawzall, and pry out the upper sleeve using a screw driver. You will know when you're thru the sleeve because it will start to bind with the sawzall, so be ready for that. Again don't worry about scoring the underlying material, we'll be removing that outer sleeve later.
 Step 5 - Lower Sleeve
Now we need to remove the sleeve that the lower bushing wall was glued to. Same process as Step 4, cut thru the sleeve using the sawzall, and pry out the lower sleeve with a screwdriver. You will cut thru the flange at the bottom, but this is part of an outer sleeve and the cut will not affect performance.
 Step 6 - Bonded Bumpers
Step 6 and Step 7 can be performed in any order. I was ready for a break from the sawzall at this point so I chose to do the steps in this order. Rubber bumpers are bonded to the upper and lower surface of the bushing sleeve and these need to be removed. Some instructions suggest cutting them off, but I found the following method much faster and easier, albeit a LOT messier. Using the grinder and wire wheel, simply wear away the rubber until it's all gone.
Step 7 - Outer Sleeve
This is the one you want to take your time with. There's is still a sleeve outside of this one, so you don't have to be too concerned about cutting too deep, but it's a relatively long cut for the depth you're after so just take your time. Cut thru the outer sleeve using the sawzall and pry out the outer sleeve, just like you did for the upper and lower sleeves in Steps 4 & 5. Start at the same cut in the lower flange that you created in Step 5, no sense making more cuts than you need to. Again the cut in the flange will not affect performance.
Clean up the inside and at this point you're done with the bushing removal. Step 8 - ES Bushing Installation
Lubricate up the bushing with the included silicone and insert the bushing into the bore. Do NOT install the bushing-sleeve until after you've finished installing the bushing itself. Sometimes you can press the bushing in by hand, sometimes you need to persuade it with a hammer. Once the bushing is seated it's time to install the bushing-sleeve. Lubricate the sleeve with the same included silicone and press it in as far as you can by hand. Place a metal plate on the underside of the bushing cavity and place the c-clamp around the metal plate and the bushing-sleeve. Use the c-clamp to press the sleeve into place. I've watched others try to use a hammer for this and it mushrooms the end of the sleeve. A c-clamp works fast and easy and does not damage the sleeve. I apologize for not getting a pic of this (c-clamp), I hope my description will suffice. 
DONE!
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NA to TT, starting from the ground up... |
Subframe Bushing Swap in 8 "easy" steps - 
